"What are you doing tonight?" a middle aged woman said to me, as she peered over my shoulder in clinic a few weeks ago. "I have an event," I replied.
"Okay, do you have free time tomorrow." "No, I need to study," I replied.
"Okay, how about the next day," she said...
This is how I ended up on a little island in the middle of Dong ting hu, the largest lake in Changsha, drinking snake and turtle bai jiu with many important Hunan government leaders. Bai jiu is a white liquor that is commonly drank in China, this particular one was brewed with turtle and snake and other Chinese herbs. "Gan bei (cheers- I think it's meaning is something closer to bottom's up)" they said, " it is good for the man."
The woman peering over my shoulder turned out to be my teacher's younger sister, and after dissecting my schedule for the next few days she finally asked me for a favor- to meet and hang out with her 17 year old son in order inspire him to speak more English. The family is very warm and welcoming, albeit pushy, a common combination in China. After the first time I met them, in return for my favor of helping her son, who speaks English rather well, they invited me to go to Dong ting hu on vacation for the mid-Autumn festival week.
Her husband and her are both relativly high level local government leaders. While not as rich as those in big business, they get a lot of government perks, like nice hotels and restaurants. The drive to dong ting hu was filled with me teaching them Jewish and Israeli songs, telling them about Rosh Hashana and Yom Kippur, along with the whole family learning words about driving and cars and, of course, American politics.
Dong ting hu is rather beautiful, it is a large lake with many rice paddy fields, which in the dry seasons are marshlands, and fishing boats scattered throughout. Our first day we went hiking on Zhun island in dongting hu. First we had a tour, hearing about the emperor's number 2 and 3 wives who lived there for many years, seeing the lucky well to wash you hands in, and a few friendship trees. I am not of the details about this place, our tour was in Chinese. Being good hosts, my friends kept telling the guide to speak slower, and directly to me, but it was complicated and my Chinese is not their yet. I paid intense attention and always told them I understood, the easy way out of the situation.
We made our way to a beautiful restaurant in the center of the island and relaxed on the second floor deck drinking tea. When other people arrived and it was time to eat, my friend's father who is the highest leader in the government at the meeting, put his arm around my shoulder and said, "let's have a private conversation." We went into one room with the men at the meeting, about 10 in all, and the women and children went into another. We sat down, like good hosts of any Chinese party, dish after dish was brought out and the glasses filled with snake turtle bai jiu.
"Welcome you to our China," my friend says " gan bei." "Let's drink to our friendship" another person says, "gan bei." Drink to the leader's English level, gan bei." " Drink to learning Chinese medicine, gan bei." " To your Chinese, Gan bei." " Drink to your travels in China, gan bei." One man comes over, holds my hand and says a long speech, which I think was about me having telling all my friends how wonderful China is, gan bei. Another comes over, puts his arm around me speaks of how warm and welcoming Chinese people are, gan bei...to the delious food...gan bei...New York City...gan bei...it is good for the man...gan bei...China...gan bei...USA...gan bei...
Needless to say, by the end of the meal I was a little more than tipsy. But the day was far from over. We got in the car (I was surprised and relieved they take designated drivers very seriously, I assume they have relatively low level jobs, but did not drink a bit) and were off to Yue yang lou, another famous local site. By this time I am rattling off stories about New York, Cherry Hill, my travels, and anything else, in Chinese to my friends, not sure if I am making any sense or speaking clearly.
Yue yang lou remains a bit fuzzy in my mind. I remember it was beautiful, had a wonderful view of the lake, and there was a poem on the wall which may have been written my Chairman Mao, but I am not sure about that it could very well be a much older poem. After a brief rest at the hotel, my head still spinning, we headed out for dinner with a number of the family friends from childhood.
One man filled my glass with bai jiu and welcomed me, gan bei. My friend's grandfather was happy to have me as a guest, gan bei. Everyone was excited I could speak some Chinese, gan bei...Like earlier in the day, they all want to welcome me and provide as much food and drink as possible to be a good host- show their concern with my wellbeing and enjoyment. So after all, gan bei.
The next day, I was surprised at how well I survived, only a minor headache, some dizziness, and a little stomach upset, all better after my noodle soup for breakfast. This day we went to another little island that had many farm restaurants with very fresh food and places to relax, play ma zhong, sit in a hammock, and go hiking. After some napping and hiking, lunch came. They poured me some beer this time, it was a light day but at gan bei, I did not finish. They asked, "yesterday your drinking was very fierce (hen lihai), why aren't you finishing?"
"Yesterday, I think, I drank a little too much."
My friend smiled and said, "no you didn't, you haven't drank too much until you can't walk straight, gan bei..."